Small Gauge Positive Battery Cable

[codefoster]

I'm still figuring out my new Geo Pro and found that the cable that runs from the main battery switch to the positive terminal of the battery is rather small gauge and concerns me. It doesn't have any spec text on it, but the outside diameter (including insulation) is only 1/4". I realize this is a short run, but it's carrying the entire house load, right?

 

[Aussieguy]

Unless you got some big load that wire should handle standard 12v loads

I have a hard time turning on enough 12v stuff to go past 10-15amps

It may limit your charging current from converter
If the whole length from battery to converter is undersized

If you got a shunt or Bluetooth in battery you can watch how the battery is getting charged/drained

 

[codefoster]

Great. Thanks. I'm looking at this because I have a new Victron BMV-712 that I'm installing and that will tell me what the amperage is going in and out and if that wire is big enough. I sort of forgot this was only the DC loads.

 

[chrisski]

I commented on a different thread about the skinny wire. Slide outs or leveling jacks can pull up to 50 amps on my system. LED lights are one or two amps each one that’s on, and my propane blower motor would be pulling up to 10 amps.

Also not sure how much your converter pushes into the battery when charging, but my guess is 10 amps.

I have crimpers, lugs, and extra wire and would make a cable for that. If that’s 10 AWG wire, it will be rated for 24 amps constant, or 30 amps otherwise.

 

[TacomaJoe]

If you don't have an inverter that wire can probably handle your 12V loads. Be mindful that the switch will kill all the 12V, which includes the 12V needed for the break away brake system. Don't tow with the switch OFF.

 

[codefoster]

If you don't have an inverter that wire can probably handle your 12V loads. Be mindful that the switch will kill all the 12V, which includes the 12V needed for the break away brake system. Don't tow with the switch OFF.

I'm glad you gave the warning. I didn't know the break away brake system required 12V. I was advised to keep the battery switch on when towing to keep 12V going to the house from the towing vehicle for charging but this is a much better reason!

 

[JimM2109S]

I just responded regarding the small wire in another thread in which you had found the "new" switch.

 

[jlankford]

LED lights are one or two amps each one that’s on,

If your LED lights pull 2A each, you need different LED lights. The LED ceiling lights in my r-pod pull about 0.25A each. All ten lights on at once pulls about 2.5A.

 

[Aussieguy]

the worst that white wire will do is strangle the converter charge
might take a lot longer for converter to charge the battery

it's the not worst wiring job ......... but not the best either.
make a todo list which includes...

inspect the negative connections to frame ... there may be TWO of them one for the battery and one for the converter

find the rats nest of wiring for the 12v ... all the negatives on a busbar, know where it's located
if a bunch of 12v stuff goes out at same time .... check that negative bus

7 pin... ensure your 7pin cable can never drag on ground , zip tie or re-route it
last thing you want is to be joining road rashed wires on the side of the road



buy:
multimeter for the trailer ... stays with the trailer
spare 12v fuses
small puck type flashlights ... got some from harbor freight store them all in different locations, they use AAA

 

[Flybob]

That does not look right. It appears as if someone replaced the original wire for some reason. That wire should be the same gauge as he wire that is connected to the other side of the resettable breaker. Should be a simple fix.

 

[jlankford]

You have posted in another thread asking questions about the factory installed inverter in the Geo Pro. If your unit has an inverter, then the battery cables pictured are much too small.

 

[PhilFromMaine]

1/4" is probably a 6 AWG wire that is more than adequate for most TTs. If you have an inverter, or other devices, that demand more amps than a 6 AWG can handle, most manufacturers will install a direct connection from the inverter to the battery with a larger AWG wire. From here in Maine, I would say trust your manufacturer.

 

[codefoster]

Thanks, all. As I shared in a different thread, the WFCO converter on my trailer is a P (meaning not ready for lithium) and the battery is lithium, so even though the previous owner thought the battery was from the factory, this wire makes me think the first owner (I'm the third) did the lithium upgrade and a) didn't upgrade the converter and b) used the wrong wire here. The other wires on the tongue here are jacketed. I think that's to keep UV off the wires themselves. I'm going to replace this with a good 4 AWG wire.

 

[Aussieguy]

move the battery box to the right and you can probably attach the original cable...... direct to battery again
no new wire required...

as for storage disconnect.... undo the negative cable . (Storage mode now enabled)

is there a LID on the box? and some holes for drainage?

 

[Flybob]

Third owner explains it as I am sure that wire was not the original one.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

That does not look right. It appears as if someone replaced the original wire for some reason. That wire should be the same gauge as he wire that is connected to the other side of the resettable breaker. Should be a simple fix.

Yes, it appears someone added the battery switch, used the original cable to the switch and then added the small wire from the battery to the switch. ????? Replace the small wire with one of the same size as connected between the switch and the trailer.

Yes, the break-a-way switch should be connected direct to the battery, before the switch.

Bob

 

[TitanMike]

1/4" is probably a 6 AWG wire that is more than adequate for most TTs. If you have an inverter, or other devices, that demand more amps than a 6 AWG can handle, most manufacturers will install a direct connection from the inverter to the battery with a larger AWG wire. From here in Maine, I would say trust your manufacturer.

A 1/4" OD insulated wire is more likely a #8 awg wire which is pretty much standard for many TT's with up to 55 amp converters.

Adequate for most setups with Lead/Acid batteries that charge at lower rates but inadequate for lifepo4 charging where charge current can be whatever the converter is rated for.

I've chosen to re-do all the wiring between Battery Bank and power distribution center with much more adequate wire size. Also have converter/charger; solar controllers, and Inverter, mounted MUCH CLOSER to battery bank than factory locations

I HATE VOLTAGE DROPS. Wasted energy!!

 

[PhilFromMaine]

As with all posts of this nature, the premises change as the thread progresses. The setup obviously looks DIY. Anyhow, the fix is easy. As Mike points, the wire, just by the look of it, needs to be replaced and refitted in a more professional manor.
My estimate of the wire being 6 AWG was predicated on measuring a 6 AWG on my desk that was exactly 1/4 inches wide as the OP stated his was. Granted, that doesn't give us a definitive answer. One thing to remember is that for a small project such as yours

A 1/4" OD insulated wire is more likely a #8 awg wire which is pretty much standard for many TT's with up to 55 amp converters.

Adequate for most setups with Lead/Acid batteries that charge at lower rates but inadequate for lifepo4 charging where charge current can be whatever the converter is rated for.

I've chosen to re-do all the wiring between Battery Bank and power distribution center with much more adequate wire size. Also have converter/charger; solar controllers, and Inverter, mounted MUCH CLOSER to battery bank than factory locations

I HATE VOLTAGE DROPS. Wasted energy!!

No disagreement here. My estimate was solely based on the OPs mention that the OD of the wire was 1/4" which coincides with the width of a 6 AWG wire I happened to have on my desk. Obviously my methodology renders only an educated guess.
I also like the idea of increasing the run to the distribution box to a larger size one is happy with. The increased cost for such a small project is insignificant, so why not?

 

[mysery1]

If it was me I would remove the white wire and the switch and move the sheathed cable to the battery. But if you want to leave it as I would replace the white wire with 4ga.
Here is a link for your battery.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0592/6269/7526/files/Dakota-Lithium-User-Manual_1.pdf?v=1724033281

 

[codefoster]

I found a receipt that confirms that the first owner purchased the lithium, so it was not installed originally. That corroborates the theory that the switch and white wire are aftermarket as well. Thanks, all.