Soft start vs easy start which would you choose?

They are making a fortune on these units. Essentially, they are just capacitors. Cheap on their own. If you are moderately DIY, you could do it too pretty reasonably

Actually they have silicon controlled rectifiers in them (SCR's) along with a printed circuit board controlling the timing.

Your cheap hard start kit for your home AC uses a capacitor.
 
They are making a fortune on these units. Essentially, they are just capacitors. Cheap on their own. If you are moderately DIY, you could do it too pretty reasonably
Then why is there a 5 start learning procedure?
 
They are making a fortune on these units. Essentially, they are just capacitors. Cheap on their own. If you are moderately DIY, you could do it too pretty reasonably
Then why is there a 5 start learning procedure
You’re asking a question about a 5 year old post? What do you mean by “5 start learning procedure”?
Just repeating what SailorSam20500 stated earlier in the post. Indicates these units are more complex than just being a capacitor. Maybe I replied to the wrong post, sorry if I did.
 
Here is another option, especially if you are configuring 2 air conditioners. It’s called the Softstartup…no need to climb up on roof or hire a tech to do it. If you replace your ac no need to remove and replace.. check it out… Products - SoftStartUP
 
I just went thru this decision. The SoftStartRV unit that I installed in June, 2022 failed on our last camping trip. I had purchased the unit from a forum member who sold his camper before installing the unit. When I called to get tech support, I advised them of the purchase situation. No matter, I had an email from tech support within two hours and a rapid exchange thereafter. I suggested removing the unit from the a/c to isolate the issue and John, the tech, agreed and sent the wiring diagram so that I could run it in reverse. Sure enough, the a/c compressor worked after it's removal and the camping trip was saved.

So, I purchased another SoftStartRV. Why? The rapid response - service! New unit is installed and the a/c is again able to be operated on a 2000w inverter.
 
I assume that you mean "a 2000w inverter GENERATOR", not a 2000w inverter.
No, running it off the 2000w Renogy inverter that I recently added. I used a 25' 12ga extension cord plugged directly into one of the inverter's receptacles and using a 15a-30a adapter at the shore power connection, all circuit breakers off except main and air conditioner.

I have three 100Ah lithium batteries for a battery bank. I can run the a/c for a little more than an hour based on the battery monitor. This was a 15 minute test, not something that I would do on a regular basis or for overnight. I have the generator for that if needed.

I also have run the air conditioner (15k btu upgrade for the 2022 model year) from my Westinghouse 2500w peak/2200w run inverter generator. It has a watt meter on it and indicated the air conditioner draws 1800w when running.
 
Here is another option, especially if you are configuring 2 air conditioners. It’s called the Softstartup…no need to climb up on roof or hire a tech to do it. If you replace your ac no need to remove and replace.. check it out… Products - SoftStartUP
Whatever that thing does, it obviously affects the power to every AC device in the camper. They don't even try to explain what it does/how it works. I wouldn't trust it.
 
A side benefit of the delayed start of the motors is while running is the same level of noise. But, the separate starts is less loud. My DW can sleep thru it. Big deal for us.

That and the Honda 2200 is happy on ECO mode. Would not run at all before. Start up would kill the Honda.
 
Whatever that thing does, it obviously affects the power to every AC device in the camper. They don't even try to explain what it does/how it works. I wouldn't trust it.
I guess you didn’t really look at the page. There are plenty of explanations and it is reviewed by Mike Sokol. If you have ever looked at any of the soft start products he has always been one of the main reviewers.

That thing as you call it is the same thing that goes on each ac. It will only effect items with a big surge current. It does not effect the power to everything in the rv. Still same 120 volts just slows rush current like an ac…
 
Lots of options if you want

Swap out the whole system and get one designed to run on medium battery and solar banks ....

Run it for hours in afternoon .....to get heat sink effect out
Then switch itt to low cool

Battery and solar do the vast majorities of the cooling when the un. Is out always?
 
I don't know if this helps you all,but YouTube has a video on a ez start capacitor that goes in the A/C. I have done this and can easily
run my 15000 btu unit on 20 amps. Cost me $20ish area.
The $20 ish capacitors when put inline with your start capacitor makes a "Hard Start kit" not the soft start that will help start a compressor with a too small generator.
The difference between a hard start and soft start kits are a series of solid state timers that ramp up the voltage slowly. Hard start caps work by storing voltage and releasing it into the start coils all at once. this will help start a A/C on a 15 amp circuit, but won't start one on a too small generator.
in the case of a slightly small gen, the inrush of voltage puts a strain on the gen that not only drops the voltage, but also slows the gas motor and slows the cycles. the timing of the soft start does not slow the gas gen motor so it allows a smooth start.
although I'm with you that they are overpriced for what they cost to make. the makers have packaged them to be an easy hookup for the average RV owner. and provide excellent customer service. Thats what makes them worth it for most owners. DR
 
I guess you didn’t really look at the page. There are plenty of explanations
Feel free to quote even one. I see a whole bunch of claims, absolutely no explanations. I guess you're gullible.
It does not effect the power to everything in the rv.
It plugs in-line to the main power feed. I guess you're also not familiar with electricity.
 
There are plenty of explanations and it is reviewed by Mike Sokol. If you have ever looked at any of the soft start products he has always been one of the main reviewers.
Did you ever notice that Mr. Sokol, despite being asked online several times, seemingly has never done a side by side evaluation of the SoftStartRV product with the Micro-Air product? That seems like a natural for an unbiased reviewer but I've never seen that he even responds to those requests.

Same with his reviews of Surgeguard. Very one-sided. I'm not saying he is not being factual but he definitely seems to have an affinity for certain manufacturers.

Check out his videos here: RVelectricity

One even says "Sponsored by Southwire", the manufacturer of Surgeguard and at least one of his videos I saw a long time ago used Southwire test equipment.

Ray
 
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Feel free to quote even one. I see a whole bunch of claims, absolutely no explanations. I guess you're gullible.

It plugs in-line to the main power feed. I guess you're also not familiar with electricity.

Wow, sure will ignore your post since you seem to want to berate folks… 2 posts and I already know to block you…
 
It plugs in-line to the main power feed. I guess you're also not familiar with electricity.
Dalford's explanation is correct. The device limits sudden very short-duration spikes in the current, whatever the source. About the only other device that could be "affected" would be a residential fridge compressor.

Devices in an RV that do not draw short duration current as a spike will not be affected because their power needs are below the threshold where the device does anything but monitor.

Me, I'm not a fan because the thing is so expensive for what it does. It's also not optimized for the type of A/C but this may be a case of "good is good enough".

What you seem to be implying is that anything in the power path "affects" everything inside. That could even be a transfer switch or a circuit breaker. This thing just seems to be an inrush current limiter and those are used in a lot of places.

Ray
 
The device limits sudden very short-duration spikes in the current, whatever the source. About the only other device that could be "affected" would be a residential fridge compressor.

Devices in an RV that do not draw short duration current as a spike will not be affected because their power needs are below the threshold where the device does anything but monitor.
Where does the manufacturer offer that explanation? How does simply limiting the current without also reducing the voltage obey Ohm's law?
What you seem to be implying is that anything in the power path "affects" everything inside. That could even be a transfer switch or a circuit breaker.
Oh, I'll come right out and make that claim. Yes, if you were to change the state of a transfer switch or circuit breaker, everything downstream would obviously be affected. You seem to be implying that opening a circuit breaker won't affect downstream devices. But a switch is very different than a device which is actively altering the waveform.

I suspect it's actually doing some type of power factor correction.
 
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They leach have their "claims" to fame
Problem is a layman like us can't test them unless you already on equipment

I can say Woolis are better than Cole's probably right .. but havnt really tested but my somewhat limit knowledge makes me lean. Towards RDF


Variable frequency drives ..... allow you to change the frequency that allows the motors to + equipment to ramp up instead of shove pedal to the met
Most manufacturers now have to step up cause people getting better edumarcated

Now what BREAKS first is the biggie question
 

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