Stairs won’t retract

[MaltnHops]

I have a 2015 30DS, and my stairs won’t retract and the light on the toggle switch to hold the stairs out isn’t working. I checked the wiring harnesses and everything is tight. I checked all of the inline fuses (that I could find) in the battery compartment. Any other ideas of where to check? If there is a fuse I should be looking for, please let me know which one and where to find it.

 

[bubbles-FRF]

The steps main power fuse (25A) is an inline fuse connected directly to one of your coach batteries. As to the steps switch it is for keeping the steps extended when it is set to ON. The step switch power (12Vdc) typically comes from the Battery Control Center (BCC) via a fuse inside the BCC (pull the cover and check for a blown fuse). The BCC is with your coach batteries. The switch could be bad (always staying ON), the main power fuse could be blown, the door switch could be misaligned. Have you set the coach ignition switch to ON (door closed) to see if the steps retract? The ignition switch overrides everything except the door switch so it must be closed.

 

[MaltnHops]

Yes, I turned the engine on and they wouldn’t retract. We had to leave our campsite, and I couldn’t drive with the stairs out, so I disconnected all the wiring harnesses and removed the entire stairs and put them in the back of the Jeep and went home.

 

[bubbles-FRF]

That is a bummer. When you get them reinstalled and still need assistance after checking those items in previous post add the posting here and hopefully someone can help. I will add that the door switch supplies a ground to the step controller when the door is closed. This is predicated upon your steps being Kwikee Steps.

 

[Kadiddle-FRF]

When re-installed...... When you open the screen door, does the light on the stairs illuminate? If it does, the fuse is fine and there is some other logic problem. (Help above tells you how to find the fuse!) Assuming the fuse is okay, the door being open overrides the engine on retract (stairs stay out). So, if power and they don't retract, could be the door switch. The switch is 'normally open' meaning it closes when the magnet on the door is close.

I've had my stair assembly off twice to repair the 'L' bracket on the coach that the stairs connect to. Both sides, the L bracket started to tear. I also tapped into the stair light to add LED lighting on the inside stairs. Same yr/model as you - probably Kiwi.

 

[bubbles-FRF]

Being as the steps did not retract with ignition switch on my guess is either the main step fuse (blown) or the step controller is bad. Assuming all connections, including grounds (especially the main steps ground (green wire) at the steps mounting chassis), are good and only one issue.

 

[Kadiddle-FRF]

Being as the steps did not retract with ignition switch on my guess is either the main step fuse (blown) or the step controller is bad. Assuming all connections, including grounds (especially the main steps ground (green wire) at the steps mounting chassis), are good and only one issue.

Bubbles, On my FR3, same year and model as the OP, if the door is open, the stairs go out / stay out regardless of the ignition switch or the setting of the factory door hold switch. Door open is the highest priority. So if the door switch is faulty or the proximity magnet is missing, the stairs will stay out. Not retracting with the ignition switch is not an absolute that the fuse is blown. Very good chance but not absolute. This is why I asked about the light (which in hindsight will timeout after the door is opened for a while negating it giving valuable information!). Time to take a meter to the connector.

I've wired my stairs so that I can force the stairs to stay in (for example when up against a curbstone). I did this by placing a switch in parallel with the door switch to make the system THINK the door's closed.

 

[bubbles-FRF]

Bubbles, On my FR3, same year and model as the OP, if the door is open, the stairs go out / stay out regardless of the ignition switch or the setting of the factory door hold switch. Door open is the highest priority. So if the door switch is faulty or the proximity magnet is missing, the stairs will stay out. Not retracting with the ignition switch is not an absolute that the fuse is blown. Very good chance but not absolute. This is why I asked about the light (which in hindsight will timeout after the door is opened for a while negating it giving valuable information!). Time to take a meter to the connector.

I've wired my stairs so that I can force the stairs to stay in (for example when up against a curbstone). I did this by placing a switch in parallel with the door switch to make the system THINK the door's closed.

Never said it was absolute but the OP's steps are inoperative and in the extended position and will not retract (with door closed) even when ignition is ON. He said the step switch light is inop also and the switch provides 12Vcd to the step controller when ON to keep the steps out with door closed. Yes the ignition ON should override this and retract the steps; the OP's aren't. The OP can't check the step light because the steps will not retract to open the door to extend them again illuminating the step light for that 5 min. The door switch has nothing to do with the step switch. 12Vdc is supplied to the switch via the BCC to the step controller and the ground for the switch light is via the step controller. These issues are my understanding of the OP's dilemma and my guess (and just a guess) as to what may be the cause. Agree that a multimeter is the right course of action to take.

 

[Neilthepilot]

Sounds like the motor to me. $140 at camping world and you can change it yourself in about a half hour.