Tapping noise, front of engine

[Outsider]

I hope the OP/Mooney will keep us updated and post the results on his issue.

 

[Mooney 78865]

I guess I'm down to replacing the lash adjusters and roller rockers. To date I've flushed the engine and done two oil changes, replaced two broken manifold studs, actually replaced all of them with stainless steel studs and gone over about everything I can think of. I've had a mobile mechanic come out and listen and he's of the opinion it's a failed lash adjuster or seized rocker. I have had the valve covers off and can find no sign of a failed rocker, but short of removing the cams I can't really check the lash adjusters. And to make matters worse, taking it back to the storage yard the hydraulic line to the driver's side leveling jack decided to give up the ghost. I need to fix that before I bring it back to the house for the next go around...
Stay tuned!

 

[Mooney 78865]

So, I figured I'd do a follow up on this thread if anyone else should stumble upon it.
After replacing all of the lash adjusters and inspecting the roller rockers and still having the noise I took the unit to a mechanic for his opinion. After describing the circumstances to what brought me there and he also listening with a stethoscope and agreeing that the tapping was loudest at the timing cover on the passenger side we went ahead and opened up the timing cover. We didn't see anything amiss once apart, however after removing the chain tensioners both had failed seals at the block. Replacing both tensioners and re assembling it still had the tapping. (We were hoping.) Still no codes were ever thrown, oil pressure was good, compression was good across the board with the exception of the #1 cylinder being about 10# lower than the other 9. Scoping all 10 cylinders revealed nothing unusual.
By accident one of the mechanics noticed a "gasoline" smell at the exhaust on one of the test runs. This had us removing the plugs again and "sniffing" each cylinder. Sure enough, the #1 cylinder smelled of gasoline with the plug removed. Now it was decision time, remove the head and pan to access the #1 piston and rod, (doable in frame) and hope the crank was unharmed, or go ahead and remove the engine. I decided that the safest bet was to remove the engine and buy a short block from Ford. The price was right, $3,400 and would be a wash as to the machine costs and labor to go through the original block. I received the block in about 4 days and dropped it off to the mechanic who had removed the original by that point. another week to reinstall and do all of the monkey motion associated with replacing the engine in a class A motorhome. Side note: believe it or not the engine can be removed from the coach by removing the "hood" and the front grill and taking it out the front. Who knew?
So, what happened? It appeared that the fuel injector on the #1 cylinder failed to close at shutoff allowing the pressurized fuel in the rail to pump into the cylinder. When I went to start it, what I thought was a low battery was actually fuel in the #1 cylinder that momentarily hydro locked bending the rod. Never in a million years would I have thought that. I saw nothing on the modular Ford engines that would lead me in that direction, and only one video of some folks who had a stuck injector "washing" the piston of oil and over some miles causing the piston to score the cylinder.
I guess in the end bad things happen to nice people. My wife summed it up best, "We've had this motorhome for 6 years and have had virtually no issues in 50,000 miles. Be happy"
In the end, we spent a little over $10,000 to get us back in shape. Thats including removing the engine and installing a new block as well as the timing cover and tensioners at the beginning of the process.
I'm glad it's done, and I actually know the cause. Not too happy that it happened, and I don't know what I could have done to have prevented it. It is what it is, that's life and we move on....

 

[cmulvey]

So, I figured I'd do a follow up on this thread if anyone else should stumble upon it.
After replacing all of the lash adjusters and inspecting the roller rockers and still having the noise I took the unit to a mechanic for his opinion. After describing the circumstances to what brought me there and he also listening with a stethoscope and agreeing that the tapping was loudest at the timing cover on the passenger side we went ahead and opened up the timing cover. We didn't see anything amiss once apart, however after removing the chain tensioners both had failed seals at the block. Replacing both tensioners and re assembling it still had the tapping. (We were hoping.) Still no codes were ever thrown, oil pressure was good, compression was good across the board with the exception of the #1 cylinder being about 10# lower than the other 9. Scoping all 10 cylinders revealed nothing unusual.
By accident one of the mechanics noticed a "gasoline" smell at the exhaust on one of the test runs. This had us removing the plugs again and "sniffing" each cylinder. Sure enough, the #1 cylinder smelled of gasoline with the plug removed. Now it was decision time, remove the head and pan to access the #1 piston and rod, (doable in frame) and hope the crank was unharmed, or go ahead and remove the engine. I decided that the safest bet was to remove the engine and buy a short block from Ford. The price was right, $3,400 and would be a wash as to the machine costs and labor to go through the original block. I received the block in about 4 days and dropped it off to the mechanic who had removed the original by that point. another week to reinstall and do all of the monkey motion associated with replacing the engine in a class A motorhome. Side note: believe it or not the engine can be removed from the coach by removing the "hood" and the front grill and taking it out the front. Who knew?
So, what happened? It appeared that the fuel injector on the #1 cylinder failed to close at shutoff allowing the pressurized fuel in the rail to pump into the cylinder. When I went to start it, what I thought was a low battery was actually fuel in the #1 cylinder that momentarily hydro locked bending the rod. Never in a million years would I have thought that. I saw nothing on the modular Ford engines that would lead me in that direction, and only one video of some folks who had a stuck injector "washing" the piston of oil and over some miles causing the piston to score the cylinder.
I guess in the end bad things happen to nice people. My wife summed it up best, "We've had this motorhome for 6 years and have had virtually no issues in 50,000 miles. Be happy"
In the end, we spent a little over $10,000 to get us back in shape. Thats including removing the engine and installing a new block as well as the timing cover and tensioners at the beginning of the process.
I'm glad it's done, and I actually know the cause. Not too happy that it happened, and I don't know what I could have done to have prevented it. It is what it is, that's life and we move on....
View attachment 494183

Thanks for the follow up. Glad that you got it resolved. Nice looking MH!

 

[Mooney 78865]

Thanks for the follow up. Glad that you got it resolved. Nice looking MH!

You have no idea how happy we are to have this behind us! I first discovered it sometime in March, I think. Worked on it off and on for a month or so before needing to get ready, then riding the Trans America Trail. That brought us into July, and it was just plain too hot to play with it. Really didn't get serious again until the end of September and finally fixed a bit after Thanksgiving.
Throw in having to replace a few hydraulic lines, being told we would no longer have a storage location while it was out being fixed, and the wife stepping off the retaining wall at the kids place and breaking her pelvis, it's been a **** of a year...

 

[NCWanderers]

didn't see this mentioned and not sure if this would have prevented your injection problem, but..... I put about 16 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel tank at each fill up. Also, I dump 3 cans of Seafoam in the tank about 3 times per year. I have been doing this with my motorcycles, diesel pickup, and 3 boats for many, many years. I've never had fuel injector or carb problems. The Mystery Oil has lubricating properties to help with the dry, alcohol infused fuel we buy at the pump today,