Things to know about trailer tires

[Windywest]

I ordered a "Tireminder" package, complete with all transmitters, a 100W booster, and 7 years of batteries, from Costco. My cost delivered to my door in Canada is about $330. I picked Costco due to their good price and excellent return policy should something go wrong. I priced them out in a couple RV places, and their costs are quite a bit more, and they are a hassle to return should it be necessary.

 

[Herk7769]

Windywest,

I would like to know if you had recently weighed your camper. Since (in most installations) the rear tires of the tandem carry more load than the from two, it is possible the tire was overloaded even at the maximum inflation pressure for a C range tire.

Also was there a reason you skipped two load ranges to E? I went up a load range to D (65 PSI) and have had no tire troubles (knock on wood) since. (From Carlisle C range to Marathon D range)

 

[Tireman9]

The Tire Traker site says that all 3 TPMS systems are made by the same (Chinese?) company.
Which three systems? Any preferences? I live overseas so I have to get it right the first time! (shipping costs are murder...)

I believe Tire Tracker, Tire Minder and Tyre Guard are the three. The difference is the initial cost & warranty. These seem to look different than other systems.

When was the last time you found a company honest enough to tell you about the source of the stuff they sell or that it was identical to others.

Can't comment of shipping.

The warranty is from a guy in the US.
check the youtube and here.

 

[Ouiser]

Tireman. That also looks exactly like my Hawkshead.

 

[sheriff1]

I was thinking of doing the same. (Going from a C to an E) with the thought that it may reduce sidewall flex and improve stability down the road. Downside? Maybe rougher riding?



Also was there a reason you skipped two load ranges to E? I went up a load range to D (65 PSI) and have had no tire troubles (knock on wood) since. (From Carlisle C range to Marathon D range)[/QUOTE]

 

[Herk7769]

I was thinking of doing the same. (Going from a C to an E) with the thought that it may reduce sidewall flex and improve stability down the road. Downside? Maybe rougher riding?

The biggest downside I see is a very hard bouncy ride for your camper.
(broken dishes, open/loose cabinets, additional frame flexing - work hardened frame failures, sidewall cracks, slide shifting, ...)

 

[Windywest]

I went to load range E from C on the advice of the tire shop owner/manger, he said I could run them at 80 lbs, but recommended 65 due to the lighter weight of my camper approx 7200 dry. He also said he sold a lot of these tires and had never had any come back. I trust this guys advice, it's a small town, so anything negative or bad service reports get around quickly. I haven't weighed my trailer lately, but these tires are rated to carry over 2800 lbs at max inflation. Doing the math and having about 1200 in the truck box, that leave about 6000/4 or 1500 lbs per tire, dry weight, so I've got lots of spare capacity. I haven't gone all that far with them, but the 50 mile ride home seemed smooth and easy.

 

[Herk7769]

I went to load range E from C on the advice of the tire shop owner/manger, he said I could run them at 80 lbs, but recommended 65 due to the lighter weight of my camper approx 7200 dry. He also said he sold a lot of these tires and had never had any come back. I trust this guys advice, it's a small town, so anything negative or bad service reports get around quickly. I haven't weighed my trailer lately, but these tires are rated to carry over 2800 lbs at max inflation. Doing the math and having about 1200 in the truck box, that leave about 6000/4 or 1500 lbs per tire, dry weight, so I've got lots of spare capacity. I haven't gone all that far with them, but the 50 mile ride home seemed smooth and easy.

You most likely have 4,000 pound axles on your camper and the frame is only rated for your GVWR. It does not matter how much "over capacity" your tires have.

If you run them at 65 PSI and the weight on them requires even less pressure you will only have center tread wear (over pressured) and no outer tread in contact with the road.

Each tire manufacturer has a pressure setting for their tire (based on the ACTUAL load on them) to ensure the full tread is in actual road contact.

The "Goldilocks" pressure for your actual tire load will give you optimum tread wear and tire life.

Jumping two load ranges (in my honest opinion) will of necessity cause your tires to be run over inflated for the load; result in uneven tire wear; a hard bouncy ride; and increased sway due to insufficient tread in contact with the road.

Obviously, your tire salesman had a different opinion.
(or he only had E rated tires in stock)

 

[Windywest]

Thanks for the info, and your assessment of the tire manger might be correct, but he did have a lot of LR E tires in stock, and didn't even offer a C or D. One of my RV buddies went from 16" LR E tires to LR G (14 ply) without any issues, in fact he swears by them and has put on several thousand miles. I will monitor the wear on my tires, but my own personal feelings are that at 65 psi and with about 800 lbs of propane, batteries, food, and camping stuff, the trailer should coast along pretty smooth, but I'll know more next week when we go out again for a 400 mile trip.

 

[Windywest]

BTW Herk, We appear to have the same units (8526 RLWS), what does yours weigh when loaded up ? I guess the only thing I might have additional from stock is 4 batteries, a solar panel, transfer switch and inverter.

 

[Herk7769]

BTW Herk, We appear to have the same units (8526 RLWS), what does yours weigh when loaded up ? I guess the only thing I might have additional from stock is 4 batteries, a solar panel, transfer switch and inverter.

I typically run at about 9000 pounds for long trips.
The GVWR of my camper is 9169
The available payload is very low IMO, but it is what it is.

We only have 2 batteries, but since they weigh about 75 pounds each 4 should even out to a couple of cases of wine.

We left for Goshen and our junket to Mississippi and then San Diego (where we are now) weighing 9300 pounds due to two cases of homemade wine, a case of Limoncello, and an extra electric stabilizer unit for OC.

That was only for the first 2 days of a 52 day trip. The wine and Limóncello is almost all gone - consumed or donated and the stabilizer was left in Goshen with OC. Gonna have to buy substandard wine soon or crack into the frozen Margaritas.

 

[Windywest]

I appears we have something else in common, I usually travel with about 8 bottles of my home made wine, and a couple dozen beer. I always make either Merlot or Cabernet, and as you say it doesn't last all that long.. I've got a lot of thirsty friends. Thanks for the info.

 

[Herk7769]

I appears we have something else in common, I usually travel with about 8 bottles of my home made wine, and a couple dozen beer. I always make either Merlot or Cabernet, and as you say it doesn't last all that long.. I've got a lot of thirsty friends. Thanks for the info.

Besides RVing you mean!

 

[Tireman9]

I went to load range E from C on the advice of the tire shop owner/manger, he said I could run them at 80 lbs, but recommended 65 due to the lighter weight of my camper approx 7200 dry. He also said he sold a lot of these tires and had never had any come back. I trust this guys advice, it's a small town, so anything negative or bad service reports get around quickly. I haven't weighed my trailer lately, but these tires are rated to carry over 2800 lbs at max inflation. Doing the math and having about 1200 in the truck box, that leave about 6000/4 or 1500 lbs per tire, dry weight, so I've got lots of spare capacity. I haven't gone all that far with them, but the 50 mile ride home seemed smooth and easy.

If you really only have 1500 per tire I do not understand why you went from C to E. While the tire store was making the sale (more expensive) did he point out that the wheels are rated for xx psi max and yyyy lbs max? Note this is based on the COLD set point inflation not hot inflation.

I bet he didn't bother as if he had he might not have made the sale of the more expensive LR-E.

BTW what size tire do you have?

 

[BigBaron]

Not having a fiver myself but always trying to learn, I would get an E tire if I could afford it. Actually, I'd get the best tire I could afford. Money well spent. I put LT tires on my pups, and plan on getting an old Spartan and rebuilding it when we move back.
Thanks for the info everybody!

 

[Windywest]

If you really only have 1500 per tire I do not understand why you went from C to E. While the tire store was making the sale (more expensive) did he point out that the wheels are rated for xx psi max and yyyy lbs max? Note this is based on the COLD set point inflation not hot inflation.

I bet he didn't bother as if he had he might not have made the sale of the more expensive LR-E.

BTW what size tire do you have?

I have ST225 75 R 15s, and the load range Cs were the basic tires from the factory. After having a blowout on a busy highway, I'm not taking a chance on my family's safety with tires that won't stand the heat or load. After checking around, the load range E tires aren't that much more than Ds, and I'm not going to quibble over a few bucks. Since I was caught in a jam away from home, I bought the LR Es so I could get home. The rims are rated at 2830 lbs each at 5 / 5 1/2, I suspect they make them all the same and drill the holes after the forge so either load range D or E are acceptable for pressure, but you can't go over the GVW rating. I'm happy so far, the money is paid and I feel a lot safer. I might have a different opinion next year, but that will be next year.

 

[Windywest]

Tireman9, just wanted to compliment you on your site at RVtiresafety, lots of good info there, easy to read, and easy to find. I just noticed one point that you made in regards to load range and tire pressure. You mentioned that a Load range E inflated to 65 lbs can't carry anymore load than a LR D at 65, since it's the air that carries the load, the tire and rim support it. This fact makes things a lot clearer to me, and running my LR E tires at 65 psi, should make my trailer pull without a lot of bounce, and shouldn't negatively impact the safety of the tires. (my thinking anyway)

 

[gotyacovered]

Looking to replace all four of our tires. We have a 2011 Sandpiper fifthwheel. Need some advice on which tires to purchase. New to forum, so not sure how to go about getting some advice. Currently have LT235/85R16E and have had nothing but trouble. Any advice/help would be appreciated.

 

[Ouiser]

I will never use anything of that an LT tire. BFG Commercial T/A is a very popular tire on other RV forums. That is what I have and now have 20,000 + with no sign of wear. California, Arizona, Montana etc. Have been all over the country. Firestone Transforce came on my truck and also seems to be becoming increasingly popular. Many tout Duravis and Michelin XPS but IMO, they are much more tire that most people need and are very expensive.

 

[ependydad]

Lots of recommendations for tires- but I personally went with Maxxis m8008 after reading overwhelmingly positive reviews for people online.

My review: it's a tire and it goes round.

I bought from discounttiredirect.com and had great customer service especially once one of my tires went MIA with UPS.