My experience has been that by monitoring inside fridge temp with an $11 Walmart wireless thermometer, I was able to deduce what was happening.
The smaller fridge in the A122 series does (did) not have automatic relight, so periodically the propane flame would get blown out by the combination of wind and vehicle speed. I had never stay lit for more than 2 hours. When the flame blew out, the temp in the fridge rose pretty quickly. So I had to use 12V when on the road.
The 12V setting in the smaller fridge was iffy in cooling the fridge. Some days it worked well, and other days it didn't. What was important was to get the fridge as close to 32 as possible on gas or 120 before towing down the road.
What also made a huge difference in getting consistent cooling regardless of mode was installing a computer fan to exhaust air out the top grill.
The HW models have/had a different fridge, where the propane will relight automatically. These work for trailering using propane, which is my norm. Again, the 12V section is under-powered in comparison and struggles to hold fridge temp on hot days in the sun. On my A213HW, I normally run on propane while trailering, switching to 12V where required for tunnels. This is a PITA because you have to crawl into the folded camper and switch the mode at the panel. Normally I just leave the fridge in Auto, and it will select 120V when available, and propane when 120V is not available.
Again, the installation of 2 computer case fans on the upper vent was necessary to get good consistent fridge performance in warmer weather. There are more than a couple of old threads on making the A-frame fridges work well. They are generally NOT installed in accordance with Dometic instructions.
Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2022 Hyundai Palisade