Water heater (just gas or gas and electric?)

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I am sligtly confused with the operation of my hot water system, even more so after reading sevaeral forum posts. I have a 2012 rockwood 5th wheel, model 8280ws, it has lp / electric system for the hot water, a lp d.s.i. switch inside and the electric on/off on the outside of the unit. I could really use some guidance as to the proper operation of this system. I know it should have been explained when I picked up the camper, but that did not happen.
 
I would like to know if the proper operation of both systems. Do they both need to be on at the same time, or can the electric be on (outside sw) and the lp sw on the inside be off, and vice versa??? I have had some conflicting direction as to the proper way to utilize the hot water system lately, so I figured this would be the best place for good direction.
 
I usually run just the electric portion.
I pressurize the water system (either from tank and pump or city water) and open the relief valve to vent the air out of the hw heater. Once I get water flow I close the relief valve and turn the on/off switch that is located outside on the hw heater to on.

For running on LP I do the exact same up until turning on the switch. Instead of the one outside I turn the hw switch located inside with the red light. I then go outside to listen to see if the LP lights.

I then enjoy my hot water.
 
In my opinion:

Obviously if you are dry camping you will use the propane only.

If shore power is available, I use AC to keep the water hot and switch on the propane right before shower time. This allows faster recovery time as you have two sources of heat to heat the incoming cold water.

There is no harm in doing so since the systems are completely separate.

As to popping the relief valve, an air chamber above the hot water in the tank allows room for expansion of the cold water when you turn on the heat. If there is no place for that expanded water to go, you could add so much pressure to the water lines, your faucets or relief valve can leak.

I just open the hot water faucets to let air out when I am "de-winterizing" to fill the hot water heater and that is it.
 
Thanks herk7769 & cstover,
Things are a lot cleare now, when I head home I will test out what I have learned from your input !!
Thanks Again
 
In my opinion:

Obviously if you are dry camping you will use the propane only.

If shore power is available, I use AC to keep the water hot and switch on the propane right before shower time. This allows faster recovery time as you have two sources of heat to heat the incoming cold water.

There is no harm in doing so since the systems are completely separate.

As to popping the relief valve, an air chamber above the hot water in the tank allows room for expansion of the cold water when you turn on the heat. If there is no place for that expanded water to go, you could add so much pressure to the water lines, your faucets or relief valve can leak.

I just open the hot water faucets to let air out when I am "de-winterizing" to fill the hot water heater and that is it.

This is my procedure as well --- I see no earthly reason to use my expensive (in Canada) propane to heat water when I am plugged in to a campground electric power source, which I am paying for in my camping fee anyway. The exception, of course, is for quick recovery, as outlined by Herk.

Also, I see no reason to open the water heater access door and pop the relief valve, when opening the hot water faucet essentially accomplishes the same thing.

...VTX-Al
 
I usually bleed off the pressure when I go inside. I just like knowing there is water in the hw heater. Already replaced the electric probe once!

Not a criticism! :eek:

I just do it different. What you are doing gives you peace of mind and ensures your water tank is full before putting AC on it.
(always a good thing!):)
 
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