WDH safe for Tacoma w tow for RP-190?

jenorkim

New Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2025
Posts
9
Location
Rockford MI
Hello first timer posting. I have read that it is ok to use WDH for Rp-190 up. We have a 2015Tacoma TRD sport with tow package. We bought the RP-190 from private seller who used the Blue Ox WDH to tow. However I also hear not to use WDH? Which is which? Yes good or no bad? Thank you in advance. I hate to bend the frame if this would be the case.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3637.jpeg
    IMG_3637.jpeg
    280 KB · Views: 13
First, you're definitely need the WDH.
Second, what is the payload capacity number from the driver's door yellow sticker. Not sure about Toyotas but it may be on the Tires and Loading sticker. It'll say "Occupants and cargo should not exceed xxxxlbs".
Third, be aware that these newer single axle trailers will have much higher loaded tongue weights. I would guess yours will be around 500lbs.

 
First, you're definitely need the WDH.
Second, what is the payload capacity number from the driver's door yellow sticker. Not sure about Toyotas but it may be on the Tires and Loading sticker. It'll say "Occupants and cargo should not exceed xxxxlbs".
Third, be aware that these newer single axle trailers will have much higher loaded tongue weights. I would guess yours will be around 500lbs.

 
Hitch weight for RP-190 is 336 lbs.
That is the fictional dry tongue weight. Doesn’t include the weights of batteries, factory options, dealer add-ons water and trailer cargo.
You should multiply the trailer's GVWR times 13% for a ballpark loaded tongue weight. 13% is for single axle trailers.
NEVER use the brochure/website dry numbers.
 
I just traded in my 2015 tacoma off road with same payload capacity, and that was why. My listed tongue weight is similar to yours, but in actuality while loaded was 550 lbs. Add a wdh ,which you definitely need, another 100 give or take. 2 adults and a dog, lets just say 450 on the bigger side. So 550+450+100, 1100 lbs. That is nothing else in truck, not even the bed. Do what you want, your going to be over payload unless youre driving alone with an empty truck.
 
Truck owners manual are a great source of information.
Looks like brake controllers are an option, with an manual I glanced at.
A must for pulling a heavy camper.
 
A WDH is a must. as is a brake controller................ as others mentioned you probably need a bigger truck.

The 3800 lb trailer weight is not the issue but the 500lb plus tongue weight will be. If you already own it take it to a CAT scale and weigh it. Go to their web site for instructions how to weigh an RV. (Loaded to camp).

Some unibody SUVs are not recommended to use a WDH maybe that is where you have heard it..

:signhavefun:
 
I just traded in my 2015 tacoma off road with same payload capacity, and that was why. My listed tongue weight is similar to yours, but in actuality while loaded was 550 lbs. Add a wdh ,which you definitely need, another 100 give or take. 2 adults and a dog, lets just say 450 on the bigger side. So 550+450+100, 1100 lbs. That is nothing else in truck, not even the bed. Do what you want, your going to be over payload unless youre driving alone with an empty truck.
 
Thank you for the input. GVWR 5500lbs, Payload 1305 lbs, GCWR 11,500 lbs, TWR 6000lbs. Curb wt 4195 lbs All with current setup. I have trailer brakes and tow package including hitch and cooler.
 
The sticker you showed says 1040 lbs. again, your decision, good luck. I’m not the police, just take it easy at speed. It will tow, but now that I have a full size it’s so much better
 
The sticker you showed says 1040 lbs. again, your decision, good luck. I’m not the police, just take it easy at speed. It will tow, but now that I have a full size it’s so much better
I figured out why sticker says 1040 lbs it deducted 2 passengers weighing 150 pds each to equal 1340 pds to get real allowable payload. Then I deduct weight of passengers/cargo. It will be tight. Thanks again.
 
I figured out why sticker says 1040 lbs it deducted 2 passengers weighing 150 pds each to equal 1340 pds to get real allowable payload. Then I deduct weight of passengers/cargo. It will be tight. Thanks again.

Passengers are never deducted from the listed payload. Never.

The payload listed in brochures is a theoretical best-case scenario for your model truck with a very specific (read: stripped) set of options.

Adding options - leather seats, sunroof, etc, etc, reduces available payload.

The GVWR is the same for all models of your specific truck, regardless of trim level. It is literally "the maximum weight allowed on the contact patches of the four tires".

The payload for *your* particular truck was arrived at by weighing the truck as it rolls off of the assembly line ("curb weight"), and subtracting that weight from the GVWR.

In summary, the brochure payload represents what it *could be* - if you special ordered the correct configuration - while the payload on the door represents what it *is*.

Also note that anything that you put on or into your truck reduces your available payload. Toolbox in the bed? take off 150lbs. Cooler in the back seat? that's another 35-50. Wife? Couple of dogs? Even bed liner. It all adds up.

Add to that the fact that the listed "dry weight" for the trailer is useless, as mentioned above. That is the weight as it came out of the factory - with none of your food, clothes, dishes, bedding, cornhole game, etc, etc, etc.

Put all of this together, and YES - you absolutely need a WDH, and NO - you probably shouldn't be towing that trailer with that truck. (I get that people do it all of the time, doesn't make it a good choice).

Good luck!
 
I figured out why sticker says 1040 lbs it deducted 2 passengers weighing 150 pds each to equal 1340 pds to get real allowable payload. Then I deduct weight of passengers/cargo. It will be tight. Thanks again.
No!!! If your sticker says 1040 that is it period.......... The two passengers at 300 pounds makes your remaining payload for use 740 lbs. The passengers are part of the vehicles cargo. The REAL payload is 1040........
 
Last edited:
Thank you for the input. GVWR 5500lbs, Payload 1305 lbs, GCWR 11,500 lbs, TWR 6000lbs. Curb wt 4195 lbs All with current setup. I have trailer brakes and tow package including hitch and cooler.
I figured out why sticker says 1040 lbs it deducted 2 passengers weighing 150 pds each to equal 1340 pds to get real allowable payload. Then I deduct weight of passengers/cargo. It will be tight. Thanks again.
You are WRONG.
TOWING capacity acounts for 2 passengers, not the PAYLOAD capacity.
That's why the sticker says "Occupants". The driver is an Occupant, therefore their weight will also be subtracted from the payload capacity number.

You don't seem to be familiar with all the numbers and factors that go into towing a travel trailer. Many that have responded are familiar with this and have advised you of the correct calculations.
Also the weight of the WDH also has to be subtracted from the payload capacity number.

Please take the advice of seasoned RVers. Your payload number is low, even for a 1/4 truck.
 
I figured out why sticker says 1040 lbs it deducted 2 passengers weighing 150 pds each to equal 1340 pds to get real allowable payload.
Just a coincidence. Why does the door sticker say "the combined weight of occupents"?
From a 2015 Tacoma Owners manual:
Cargo Capacity.png


Passengers are never deducted from the listed payload. Never.

No!!! If your sticker says 1040 that is it period..........
Only in the real world. :)
 
I knew it was time to trade in my tacoma when i started going through my truck and weighing or estimating every little thing in it when i first got the camper. Items like my 40 lb bed mat, 20 lb this, 10lb that, i was like i cant live like this. I loved that truck, but the payload is just not up to par. So, when searching for a new truck and reading on this site, i became very familiar with payload. Basically any travel trailer or truck i was looking it, it always came down to payload, always seemed to be what ran out first. So, i harp on that a lot, and being an engineer i cant imagine if you go a lb over its the end of the world. But, in todays world, i would think insurance could drop you if you're not following the rules.

Going back to the op's question, taking out the truck size for a moment. theres no doubt a wdh is needed. The amount of porpoise and movement was bad enough with a wdh, and without the squat was awful. As far as the frame bending, the tacoma will no doubt handle it as long as the frame has been cared for. As i know, the tacoma rust frame issue is real. I fluid filmed like you read about. But, its got a class 4 hitch. Im wondering if what you heard was some talk about camper frames bending from a wdh. Not common but its happened, especially with andersen wdh.
 
I had heard talk of frames on an Rpod bending using a WDH that are less than an RP-190. My main concern is the payload issue. My taco has a break controller and towing package. I also use a WDH for the RP-190. It tows just fine with it with no sway and I take it easy and ensure weight is distributed. Looks like if I use the Taco to keep the weight down. I really don’t want to buy another truck.
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom