Winterizing procedure

Girldad24

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Joined
Oct 14, 2024
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Location
New Freedom, PA
We bought a new Rockwood Freedom 1940LTD this year so will be the first year having to winterize. Will be storing inside a pole barn but not heated. This year we never used the holding tank/water pump, just city water. To winterize the water system Is blowing out the lines enough or do I need to put in antifreeze too? Also for battery storage, should I just unhook or do I need to bring inside and put on a trickle charger? Thanks for any help, this is our first camper.
 
It would be good to make sure the water heater has been thoroughly drained. At the price of RV batteries I would bring it inside and put it on the tickle charger. There is a lot to learn, I winterized my Flagstaff 27KS late last fall, bought my tow vehicle late spring and am finally taking it out for the first time next week. I am originally from the Binghamton area about an hour N or Scranton, so I know about those real winters and now about the oppressive summers in TX.
 
depends on what battery came with your setup?
lithium .... just store it no charger needed
lead acid use a trickle charger

water... city water uses the same plumbing lines as the tank
only the portion of hose between the PUMP and the TANK is separate from the city supply.

leave the tank half empty and introduce RV antifreeze into the rest of the system

follow antifreeze recommendations for any mixing ratio guidelines

some trailers have a antifreeze hose near the pump
plop the hose into a container of antifreeze and pump it through all faucets until it comes out... make sure you pump it through the toilet flush valve (pedal)

un-winterize by simply pumping clean water through the system

DONE...
 
depends on what battery came with your setup?
lithium .... just store it no charger needed
lead acid use a trickle charger

water... city water uses the same plumbing lines as the tank
only the portion of hose between the PUMP and the TANK is separate from the city supply.

leave the tank half empty and introduce RV antifreeze into the rest of the system

follow antifreeze recommendations for any mixing ratio guidelines

some trailers have a antifreeze hose near the pump
plop the hose into a container of antifreeze and pump it through all faucets until it comes out... make sure you pump it through the toilet flush valve (pedal)

un-winterize by simply pumping clean water through the system

DONE...
:confused::confused:

If winterizing why in the world would anyone want to leave a water tank half empty? Perhaps in Florida but elsewhere???

Not the best idea
 
:confused::confused:

If winterizing why in the world would anyone want to leave a water tank half empty? Perhaps in Florida but elsewhere???

Not the best idea

why not .... tank is plastic and air gap for half a tank of water leaves miles of room for expansion... if it freezes it wont hurt anything

empty it if you must if you think it will spoil , even if it is frozen
you can choose full empty or half

as for the nonsense of draining blowing out with compressors filling with antifreeze ....
send undiluted antifreeze through system, if it mixes with a little bit of water it won't hurt.
Refer to mixing directions for your anti freeze...
 
why not .... tank is plastic and air gap for half a tank of water leaves miles of room for expansion... if it freezes it wont hurt anything

empty it if you must if you think it will spoil , even if it is frozen
you can choose full empty or half

as for the nonsense of draining blowing out with compressors filling with antifreeze ....
send undiluted antifreeze through system, if it mixes with a little bit of water it won't hurt.
Refer to mixing directions for your anti freeze...

Granted there's plenty of room in the tank but NOT in the drain valve which is often isolated from the tank by a short hose and totally exposed to freezing temps.
Tank will empty itself when freeze damaged valve thaws but now you get to replace valve after you find one that fits.

As for any mixing of water and RV antifreeze, as you said in your previous post "read the instructions" and in this case the ones on the RV antifreeze bottle. It's clearly stated to NOT mix with water.

Two things----RV antifreeze is totally different from Automotive antifreeze and I seriously doubt people living in Florida do much "winterizing ".
 
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I agree with Aussieguy just having RV anti freeze in the tank and all pipes will do, any condensation that could happen would minimally dilute the RV anti freeze. This has worked well, and even where I am in the southern plains, it will get into the low 20's and has even hit -2.


So next question for our discussion. I have made notes but not tried the blow out method. What pressure is used, I would think you would have to ensure that every valve is open all the way, like the bypass and filter holder unscrewed?



Aussieguy how are you doing, I see you are just NW of Tampa?
 
I encourage you to follow the manufacturer's recommendations on the FW tank, which is most likely to drain it completely. Blow out the lines and then fill with RV antifreeze. Leaving small amounts of water in valves is asking for trouble if it freezes and cracks the valve. And yes, be kind to your battery by taking it indoors (like a basement) and put it on a trickle charger. I had a pair of marine batteries last 14 years by storing them in the basement and putting them on a trickle charger every few weeks.
 
So next question for our discussion. I have made notes but not tried the blow out method. What pressure is used, I would think you would have to ensure that every valve is open all the way, like the bypass and filter holder unscrewed?

For pressure setting you'll get a wide variety of answers somewhere between 20 PSI and 70 PSI. I just did mine on Sunday and set it to 40.

And you'll want the bypass to your water heater closed, otherwise it will be difficult to build up pressure in the lines.

Just go through and open each faucet one at a time.
 
Thanks, what is done for the toilet during the blow out method, just flush? Also any recommendation for where to get the air pressure regulator cap the goes on the FW tank filling pipe?
 
I encourage you to follow the manufacturer's recommendations on the FW tank, which is most likely to drain it completely. Blow out the lines and then fill with RV antifreeze. Leaving small amounts of water in valves is asking for trouble if it freezes and cracks the valve. And yes, be kind to your battery by taking it indoors (like a basement) and put it on a trickle charger. I had a pair of marine batteries last 14 years by storing them in the basement and putting them on a trickle charger every few weeks.
Thanks. That would be nice, I never got any Owner's Manual upon my new purchase or even when I contacted Forest River. You are correct about "Leaving small amounts of water in valves is asking for trouble if it freezes and cracks the valve." I believe this is what the Dealership did. Unfortunately I have only used this camper once so far and that was with city water, so this wasn't noticed until after my doing the winterizing when this FW valve keep dripping anti freeze, after the warranty period. What can you tell me about locating the replacement valve, did you get it from Forest River and what was involved in the replacement task please?
 
I was kind of surprised it took 7 gallons of anti freeze for the winterizing of my camper. I guess there is quite a few long lines with the outside sink and shower, plus the inside water heater, sink, shower and toilet. Also I noted the the hot water tank shut off valves, that the direction of the handle is the direction of the allowed water flow.
 
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Thanks, what is done for the toilet during the blow out method, just flush? Also any recommendation for where to get the air pressure regulator cap the goes on the FW tank filling pipe?
I got this one from Amazon
Winterize Blow Out Adapter for RV, Boat, Motorhome, Camper, and Travel Trailer: Air Compressor Quick-connect Plug to Male Garden Hose Faucet Fitting (Solid Lead-Free Brass)
Amazon.com
 
I was kind of surprised it took 7 gallons of anti freeze for the winterizing of my camper. I guess there is quite a few long lines with the outside sink and shower, plus the inside water heater, sink, shower and toilet. Also I noted the the hot water tank shut off valves, that the direction of the handle is the direction of the allowed water flow.
 
Thanks. That would be nice, I never got any Owner's Manual upon my new purchase or even when I contacted Forest River. You are correct about "Leaving small amounts of water in valves is asking for trouble if it freezes and cracks the valve." I believe this is what the Dealership did. Unfortunately I have only used this camper once so far and that was with city water, so this wasn't noticed until after my doing the winterizing when this FW valve keep dripping anti freeze, after the warranty period. What can you tell me about locating the replacement valve, did you get it from Forest River and what was involved in the replacement task please?
Here is my owners manual. The factory does not supply such to my knowledge.

Most valves and plumbing fittings are available at most big box hardware stores.

Bob
 

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Thanks. That would be nice, I never got any Owner's Manual upon my new purchase or even when I contacted Forest River.

That's because it's been online only, for the past few years. I have seen some dealers print one out for their customers.
Just download the Folding Campers manual, from FR's website. Just realize that it won't have any model-specific information.
 
I was kind of surprised it took 7 gallons of anti freeze for the winterizing of my camper. I guess there is quite a few long lines with the outside sink and shower, plus the inside water heater, sink, shower and toilet. Also I noted the the hot water tank shut off valves, that the direction of the handle is the direction of the allowed water flow.
7 gallons seems excessive. Did you bypass your water heater?

I have a 42' 5th wheel and only use 3 or 4 at most.
 
I was kind of surprised it took 7 gallons of anti freeze for the winterizing of my camper. I guess there is quite a few long lines with the outside sink and shower, plus the inside water heater, sink, shower and toilet. Also I noted the the hot water tank shut off valves, that the direction of the handle is the direction of the allowed water flow.
Also any recommendation for where to get the air pressure regulator cap the goes on the FW tank filling pipe?

Yes, 7 gallons seems excessive. Did I miss how you put the antifreeze in the system?

Another thing, you do not want to find an adapter to use compressed air by attaching to your fresh tank fills port. You do not want to pressurized your fresh tank!

The adapters for blow-out screw into the city water port connection.
 
Virginian: Thanks I will check into this.
Bob K4TAX: Thanks I will check there. I have a Word file that is my Camper living document I keep adding to as I learn new things.
bikendan: Thanks, I found it here - Owner's Kit I don't know why Forest River or the RV Dealership didn't disclose this?
Iwritecode: Thanks, probably I somewhat filled the hot water tank until I figured out the valve settings.
5picker: Thanks, to the FW tank. I highlighted the city water port connection for the compressed air adapter.
 
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