Winterizing

I have an AC unit, a TV antenna and the bathroom vent on top at the rear. There is also a solar panel mounted on top on near side.
That previous pic is a stock photo so I'm not sure what that black hump circled is because my antenna is circular and like an upside-down wok but that one in the pic is not.
In the attached there are 2 opposing side views. One shows the antenna and the AC unit with bathroom vent behind and the other shows the solar panel.
 

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I have an AC unit, a TV antenna and the bathroom vent on top at the rear. There is also a solar panel mounted on top on near side.
That previous pic is a stock photo so I'm not sure what that black hump circled is because my antenna is circular and like an upside-down wok but that one in the pic is not.
In the attached there are 2 opposing side views. One shows the antenna and the AC unit with bathroom vent behind and the other shows the solar panel.

In post 20, I answered the question about the feature in the stock photo. It has a different refrigerator than your unit has.
 
So it looks like you do have a 12V fridge like ours. FYI, here is some current consumption data on our fridge, to let you understand the boondocking capability when using it.
https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f218/12vdc-compressor-fridge-data-276067.html

It's odd that they mounted your solar panel on the opposite side of the unit from ours (our factory panel was mounted on the passenger side of the roof). FYI, you have room up there for three more panels for a total of 800 watts, but you'd need a larger solar charge controller to use all that space. The SCC that came with the unit is good for two more panels.
 

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2024 R-POD 192 Additional Solar Panels

I really like that you added extra solar panels as I was thinking about doing the same.
I need to understand the technical side of things before tackling that project.
I don't know exactly what related equipment my unit is fitted with currently but hoping some of it will still work if I add 2 more panels. Looking forward to doing some overlanding so will probably upgrade batteries to Lithium and increase power storage capacity.
 
I really like that you added extra solar panels as I was thinking about doing the same.
I need to understand the technical side of things before tackling that project.
I don't know exactly what related equipment my unit is fitted with currently but hoping some of it will still work if I add 2 more panels. Looking forward to doing some overlanding so will probably upgrade batteries to Lithium and increase power storage capacity.

you are going to be limited in roof space to 600 or 800w
will be good for average 12v usage (including the 12v fridge)

you might require the use of a ground panel (solar suitcase ) if you camp a lot in the shade

200ah lifepo4 is a good starting point for battery... mine will last about 3 days if there is no charging

so if you only camp for a weekend .. upgrade battery first then decide if you want solar
 
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Ha! I think this is the first time I've seen Aussieguy not push solar as the #1 priority.

I'm currently doing what he proposes on our house - building out an inverter system with battery rack for power outage backup. Basically the storage half of a home solar system without the solar. Once I get the battery bank sized for our backup needs then I'll start working on adding a solar array in the future.
 
Or...................you could use an air compressor, blow all your lines free of water with 50 psi air, and call it good. I've never used anti-freeze on my rPod.
 
As a once upon a time Irrigation guy, I've always used the same method we did with underground systems. Compressed air at 30 psi hooked to the city water, open valves one after another till they run dry and manually drain the fresh water tank. Pour RV antifreeze into the sink traps. Any decent RV Center has the fitting for this. I'm well North of the 45th Parallel and sub zero winter temps are common.
 
I have a question on using the compressed air method to winterize water lines. If you are pushing the air in through the city water connection, don't you also need to address the water pump and in-line strainer to clear them of water?
 
I have a question on using the compressed air method to winterize water lines. If you are pushing the air in through the city water connection, don't you also need to address the water pump and in-line strainer to clear them of water?


Yes. The instruction list I posted in an earlier comment is for compressed air only. There are steps for dealing with the water pump - an early step is to run the pump until it's dry and then remove the strainer to ensure it's empty.
 
Yes. The instruction list I posted in an earlier comment is for compressed air only. There are steps for dealing with the water pump - an early step is to run the pump until it's dry and then remove the strainer to ensure it's empty.

In my experience, i have rented only 2 units and BOTH had cracked prefilters from freezing . In mine i just remove the prefilter, then nothing to crack.
I only winterize by air method. A cup of AF into each trap and toilet and i am done.
 
I have always opened the valve hot water valves when manually draining the hot water heater and then the cold water valves to siphon the lines and pump clear when draining the fresh water tank then remove the strainer cap as Minthillbill stated. I really try to minimize chemical usage as much as possible.
 
I have always opened the valve hot water valves when manually draining the hot water heater and then the cold water valves to siphon the lines and pump clear when draining the fresh water tank then remove the strainer cap as Minthillbill stated. I really try to minimize chemical usage as much as possible.


I have learned that a fair amount of water remains in the freshwater tank after it is drained, and the line to the pump is of course still full of water. After draining the tank, my pump will run for at least two minutes pumping more water out of a faucet until it finally runs dry. I don't depend on siphoning to clear water from anywhere in the system. After the pump is emptied I use compressed air to clear all the lines, after first bypassing the water heater.

It took us over 6 months to get the chemical taste out of the water system on our new r-pod. I will never put any chemicals back in those lines, except for a bit of chlorine introduced into the freshwater tank to sterilize the system.
 

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2020 Rpod 192

I have a 2020 Rpod 192. Just finished Winterizing it.

If yours is built like mine, the access to the water pump is through the through storage space on the outside of the camper.
For mine, access the storage door on the 'kitchen' side of the camper. The panel should be just to the right as you look into the compartment and may take 2 screws to remove.

Once you are in the storage area, the panel is labeled for water pump access. The pump itself also has the bypass and the antifreeze hose already installed.
 

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