Wisdom of Removing a Heat Vent

[codefoster]

My 2021 Geo Pro 16BH has a furnace under the port dinette with a vent right there and a duct run around the U-dinette to the starboard bulkhead for a second vent. I realize the advantage of distributing the heat a bit, but the duct takes up valuable storage space. I'm wondering if anyone has any opinion on how the furnace would do with just one vent. Alternatively, I could put a second vent right next to the one on the port side so it still has as much outlet but it's just not distributed as well.

 

[kenandterry]

My 2021 Geo Pro 16BH has a furnace under the port dinette with a vent right there and a duct run around the U-dinette to the starboard bulkhead for a second vent. I realize the advantage of distributing the heat a bit, but the duct takes up valuable storage space. I'm wondering if anyone has any opinion on how the furnace would do with just one vent. Alternatively, I could put a second vent right next to the one on the port side so it still has as much outlet but it's just not distributed as well.

Only another owner of your exact floor plan will know what you’re proposing.
It might help if you post photos and the floor plan of your Geo Pro.

Just saying.

 

[Chuck_S]

It's a long way back to that double bunk from the furnace location.

Easy to tell if reducing the air flow by 50% will still provide adequate heat: Block off the starboard heat vent for a cold weekend and make a determination if the extra storage space is worth whatever loss of heat occurs. Restricted air flow may be nosier.

Camper trailer duct work is usually extremely inefficient so not much air may be getting across the camper anyway. My Roo has rear and front outlets. My Coleman popup just blasted hot air out the front of the unit straight into the cabinets across the aisle until I fitted some louvers.

-- Chuck

 

[Aussieguy]

before doing much else look to see if you can do a better job of installing the offending duct
can it be moved higher/lower into corner where it won't black access for storage

I freed up a lot of room under my sink by tidying up the factory installed stuff.

can you use better ducting material ?

Try not to affect the airflow too much
they are designed to have correct flow

Where is the intake.... make sure you don't move things so the OUT air is sucked straight back into the intake

 

[Larry-NC]

New vent

My 2021 Geo Pro 16BH has a furnace under the port dinette with a vent right there and a duct run around the U-dinette to the starboard bulkhead for a second vent. I realize the advantage of distributing the heat a bit, but the duct takes up valuable storage space. I'm wondering if anyone has any opinion on how the furnace would do with just one vent. Alternatively, I could put a second vent right next to the one on the port side so it still has as much outlet but it's just not distributed as well.

For each furnace model there is a specified area (square inches) of inlet area and total outlet area. If you get beneath that number, the furnace can overheat and will then start a cycle where the internal fans continue to run but the gas is cut off. You do not want this to happen. If you do eliminate that far-side duct, be sure to add the second near-side duct as you have proposed.

 

[sailorsam20500]

can you use better ducting material ?

On my trailer, FR used the plastic flex ducting. That stuff is supposed to be stretched as tight as possible to get maximum air flow. Mine was so loose that it draped to the ground when the underbelly was removed. I replaced 90% of it with rigid aluminum, and 9% with heavy flex aluminum. I had to use the plastic stuff for one short section that ran between the frame and my black tank. I got much better air flow at the register farthest from the furnace where previously it had always been on the chilly side.
So, if you have the plastic flex ducting and upgrade most of it, you may get overall better air flow and not put any negative stress on the furnace due to removing that register.

 

[Larry-NC]

Plastic flex ducting

On my trailer, FR used the plastic flex ducting. That stuff is supposed to be stretched as tight as possible to get maximum air flow. Mine was so loose that it draped to the ground when the underbelly was removed. I replaced 90% of it with rigid aluminum, and 9% with heavy flex aluminum. I had to use the plastic stuff for one short section that ran between the frame and my black tank. I got much better air flow at the register farthest from the furnace where previously it had always been on the chilly side.
So, if you have the plastic flex ducting and upgrade most of it, you may get overall better air flow and not put any negative stress on the furnace due to removing that register.

The plastic flex ducting comes in 10-foot lengths. The trailer assemblers don't work a timed-shift. When their daily quotas are met, they can go home, so they take a lot of shortcuts. One of them is to never cut ducting; one foot, two, it doesn't matter. Just stuff in a 10-foot section and move on.

 

[Bob K4TAX]

More vents will improve the uniformity of heat throughout the unit. I suggest carefully inspecting the duct work and try to position it so it does not get damaged by storage of items in those areas.

By the way, if you are digging for more storage space, likely to carry more stuff not usually needed, you best pay attention to the measured weight and GVRW rating of your trailer. In most states, an overloaded trailer is not legal to tow.

Bob

 

[codefoster]

Thanks, all. I decided to put it near the furnace but blowing on a person's feet if they're sitting there. That will remove the duct but keep the same amount of air flow.